Lube and Grease thread
 

Okay, once a 1911 is broken-in(God! I hate that term), the lube requirements drop a lot. Translation; You don't need as much as you would think. So, without further ado(Fancy term for BS), here's how I lube mine.
The usual suspects;
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0580.jpg

Disassemble and clean. As you can see, I use Plastilube Grease( Small yellow-lid tub) and LSA gun-oil.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0581.jpg

1.) The Rails- You don't need a lot of grease here, I take a Q-Tip,dab it into the tube of grease and put three small dabs on each rail,front center and rear;
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0582.jpg

2.) The Barrel- I put two drops of LSA(Be sure to shake the squeeze bottle vigorously for about fifteen seconds first) on the barrel. One towards the muzzle,the other on the Hood.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0583.jpg
Then I smooth the oil over the entire barrel with my finger until it's all got a light coating of oil on it.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0584.jpg

3.) The Link- I put one drop of oil on the link at the lug and work it back and forth a couple times.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0585.jpg

4.) Assemble the 1911 and work the slide about five times. Then wipe the excess grease off of the rear of the slide.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0586.jpg

5.) The Hammer pivot- I put one drop of LSA on the Hammer pivot and work the hammer twice.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...3/IMG_0587.jpg

Done, I've run 500 rounds through my Rock with just this level of lubing and had no problems. Now, you'll all notice I didn't oil the rifling and chamber. Guess what??? You don't need to unless the gun won't be shot for a couple months or you live in an extremely humid climate. I shoot at least twice,most times four times a month, rust or corrosion doesn't have time to form before I clean again. Plus, an oily bore will throw the first round off(Cold-bore syndrome) and oil in the chamber can increase pressure by not allowing full stretch of the case.
Hope this helps you guys.
Dave

Thanks for posting that Dave!!:)

Everyone always asks about proper lubrication on a 1911!!

Thanks, saved me from asking.

Thanks for the demo Dave!

Thanks for sharing this info for the 1911 newbies. I prefer the use of FP10 exclusively on my 1911s for the exception of a small amount of grease on the sear/disconnector when doing a complete breakdown. Grease doesn't stay put on the rails of my tightly fitted 1911s.

Sent from my ATRIX using Tapatalk

Titan, it may be the Grease you tried, my Frame/slide fit is very tight, I have no problems. FP10 is a good lube and that's all that matters.

I do the pretty much the same except I run a cutup Remoil patch down the bore (humid here in Dixie) and use Ultimalube Universal on the rails.

I use the shooters choice grease which seems to be a pretty good one. However, I have found fp10 to be adequate even for longer times between lubes.

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Nice thread, DaveW.

Good step by step illustrations.

As far as the bore, Schuemann Barrels says the same thing, just firing rounds will eventually get the bore shinny?

(last paragraph)
http://www.schuemann.com/LinkClick.a...bid=67&mid=445



Greg

Thanks Dave, another great info thread.