Tuning Extractors and Extended Ejectors

[herefordman1]

Good stuff to know. Thanks

Jim

[Feathermerchant]

Thanks Dave! I am printing this to keep in the notebook!

[BadOscar]

Great post Dave. On your ejector diagram I tune my race guns like the red line so the case is thrown as low as possible insuring it does not hit the scope mount and cause a stove pipe jam. One scenario that your diagram leaves out is the double angled ejector, where the top and bottom are at 10 degree angles creating a flat point some where in the middle. Most of my DW's were tuned like this from the factory with the contact point being 1/3 to 2/3 from the top. The idea here is you get the middle of the road ejection out the center of the port but with the single point of contact you also get the consistency. Here is a pic.

[DrHenley]

What causes a 1911 to hit you in the forehead with the empty?

My Colt did that consistently at first, but after fiddling with it for TWO YEARS it now only does it occasionally. But it is still aggravating to get popped in the forehead now and then.

My DW NEVER EVER does that.

[Dave Waits]

Empties hitting you in the forehead. My Kimber used to do that, even sent it back to Kimber. They replaced the Extractor and the Ejector with an Extended version, still did it once in a while. Then I got an education over on 1911.Org. thanks to Niemis24 who, BTW, allows me to use his wonderful diagrams.Once I tuned my Extractor and angled the nose of the Ejector, the cranial-assaults ceased. Both my RIA and the Kimber kick the cases out high and at four O'Clock now.
If you don't have an Extended Ejector there is still something you can do.Take a small file(I use a flat Jewelers'file for all this) and file an angle on the inside of the Ejector nose. What you are doing is moving the point of contact to the left which causes the case-rim to roll off the angle after contacting the Ejector. File a little bit at a time and try it until it's ejecting well to the right side.

[jmlutz]

Originally Posted by Dave Waits

Empties hitting you in the forehead. My Kimber used to do that, even sent it back to Kimber. They replaced the Extractor and the Ejector with an Extended version, still did it once in a while. Then I got an education over on 1911.Org. thanks to Niemis24 who, BTW, allows me to use his wonderful diagrams.Once I tuned my Extractor and angled the nose of the Ejector, the cranial-assaults ceased. Both my RIA and the Kimber kick the cases out high and at four O'Clock now.
If you don't have an Extended Ejector there is still something you can do.Take a small file(I use a flat Jewelers'file for all this) and file an angle on the inside of the Ejector nose. What you are doing is moving the point of contact to the left which causes the case-rim to roll off the angle after contacting the Ejector. File a little bit at a time and try it until it's ejecting well to the right side.

Thanks for the great post Dave, several years ago I had a 4 inch Kimber Covert that was just terrible about throwing the brass back in my face, I had a couple of local gunsmiths try to fix it, it didn't work. After a piece of brass hit my glasses so hard it put a chip in them, I sold the SOB, I felt bad for the buyer, but I warned him. It's bad when you want to duck as soon as as you pull the trigger because you're wary of your own gun........Mike

[skosh69]

Very nice Dave, you the man. Question? How did my name come up when you were describing "The side closest to the inside of the gun "???? hahaha...

[Sheepdog]

Thanks Dave, I have one that puts the brass right in the middle of my fore head.